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"Indians, Mardi,Gras,2009"


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"People have a very stereotyped idea of what New Orleans is. The entire year I was living there, the number one thing anyone outside of New Orleans would say if I mentioned New Orleans was about beads and tits. The irony is, that’s not even a part of New Orleans culture. That goes on for three blocks of Bourbon Street, and it’s done by tourists who come to perform their idea of what they think New Orleans is, but if a woman were to flash her protuberances at a real Mardi Gras parade on St. Charles, which is a family affair, she’d at the very least be given a stern talking-to.

"And then the image of New Orleans changed and became about Katrina. Neither one of which is what the city is about.

"I’d never experienced Mardi Gras until 2005, the year before the flood. And I frankly thought Mardi Gras was bullshit. And I didn’t realize. The last thing I expected was that I would have a spiritual experience on Mardi Gras day. But I did. I had a bona fide spiritual experience, seeing the Mardi Gras Indians on St. Claude Avenue, right there between St. Augustine’s [Catholic Church] and the Backstreet Cultural Museum.

---Ned Sublette, 2009

 Interview of the author of "The World That Made New Orleans: From Spanish Silver to Congo Square" in 2009 as he writes his next book, The Year Before The Flood, an account of modern New Orleans history and culture.  by Garnette Cadogan [more]

The African-American neighborhoods in New Orleans gradually developed their own style of celebrating Mardi Gras. Tribal names are in accord with the streets of their ward or gang.   Mardi Gras is prefers to keep secrets and the Mardi Gras Indians, although much more in the spotlight in this century than before, were quite content to maintain their secret societies within their community. These days it is more likely than not you will see a Mardi Gras Indians but it was not so long ago you had to face the danger of trekking into the forbidden neighborhoods considered far too dangerous for visitors to stray into in order to have a chance to see a Mardi Gras Indian.
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MardiGrasIndians.com

In Congo Square: Colonial New Orleans
"Sublette offers a tableau of some who have stayed. On a cool Mardi Gras morning in February 2006, in St. Augustine's Church, the oldest

 black Catholic congregation in the country, he describes a krewe of Mardi Gras Indians--black men who, as has been the practice since the 1800s, don elaborately fashioned costumes whose beads and colors recall Africa but that are made to resemble the feathered headdresses of Sioux warrior fame (partly in homage, it is said, to the more proximate tribes with whom runaway slaves found refuge in Louisiana's swamps). "I'm the Big Chief of the Congo Nation!" bellows musician and krewe leader Donald Harrison Jr., just returned from months living in a Baton Rouge motel, as he leads his troupe, Congo Nation, from the church. "And on Mardi Gras Day I cause the sensation!"

http://www.thenation.com/doc/20081229/jelly-schapiro/single
By Joshua Jelly-Schapiro
This article, mostly reviewing the original insights of Ned Sublette and his controversial negative view of President Thomas Jefferson appeared in the December 29, 2008 edition of The Nation.
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